By Narrowboat over Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Onwards to the Great Orme by Campervan
A Slow Start on the Shropshire Union Canal
Our adventure by narrowboat over Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and onwards to the Great Orme by campervan began in the gentle calm of Tattenhall Marina, tucked neatly along the Shropshire Union Canal.
Our floating home was our trusty 40-foot narrowboat, Spirit of Sproglet. Compact. Cosy. And already plotting to test my steering skills.
We slipped away from the marina and immediately faced our first challenge.
The Shady pub.
Yes, we passed it.
Yes, it was difficult.
And yes, heroic restraint was shown.
We moored near Beeston Iron Lock, conveniently close to the excellent Lockgate Coffee House. A brace of espressos later, the world felt manageable again.
Bunbury Staircase, Barbridge Junction and Into Canal Country
The next morning we tackled the notorious Bunbury Staircase Locks. Slowly. Carefully. And with a healthy respect for gravity.
From there we cruised past Barbridge Junction before turning onto the Llangollen Canal at Hurleston Junction. Here we met our new best friends — the cheerful “lockies”, Canal and River Trust volunteers who expertly guided us through the four Hurleston locks.
Their patience was impressive.
Ours improved.
Life at One Mile an Hour
We spent about a week cruising this beautiful canal. Rural moorings became our nightly routine.
Sheep grazed.
Cows did cow things.
Time slowed right down.
However, the numerous lift bridges taught us a valuable lesson. Narrowboating is not fast. And winding bridge mechanisms is not gym-free.
My arms noticed.
Ellesmere: Bakeries, History and a Perfect Mere
We stopped at Ellesmere, a charming market town with a surprisingly rich past. Historically, it developed around its natural meres — remnants of the last Ice Age — and became an important local trading hub.
Today, it’s peaceful, friendly, and dangerously well supplied with baked goods.
A special mention goes to Vermeulen & Sons Bakery.
Sausage rolls to die for.
Truly.
We will be back.
We walked around Ellesmere Mere, one of Shropshire’s largest natural lakes. Swans glided past. Other water birds gathered expectantly. A local ale at the lakeside pub felt completely justified.
Pure slow-travel bliss.
Chirk Tunnel and the Mighty Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
Back aboard Spirit of Sproglet, we cruised through the atmospheric Chirk Tunnel before emerging to face the star of the show — Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.
Built in 1805, this UNESCO World Heritage Site towers around 38 metres (126 feet) above the River Dee. The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct carries the canal across the valley on elegant cast-iron troughs supported by stone piers.
It is narrow.
It is high.
And it is unforgettable.
Christine took the helm and steered like a pro.
I concentrated on breathing.
Llangollen: Steam, Music and Mountains
We cruised onward to Llangollen, a lively Welsh town with deep cultural roots. Historically, it grew as a coaching stop and later became famous for the International Musical Eisteddfod, which still attracts performers from around the world.
Here, we reunited with Nettie, our beloved 1989 Talbot Express campervan.
A family reunion, but with engines.
Llandudno: Ice Cream, Piers and Seaside Glamour
The next day, we set off by road to Llandudno, once the jewel of Victorian seaside resorts.
In the 1920s and 1930s, Llandudno was hugely popular with holidaymakers. Grand hotels lined the promenade, and the town earned its nickname, “The Queen of Welsh Resorts.”
We walked the elegant Victorian pier, bought ice-cream cones, and promptly lost one to a greedy seagull.
No apology.
No remorse.
Just crumbs.
The Great Orme Cable Car: Views Worth the Queue
We wandered up to the Great Orme Cable Car station and somehow secured two seats within minutes. Luck was clearly on our side.
The cable car has been operating since 1969 and is the longest passenger cable car system in Britain. It carries visitors high above the town to sweeping views of the Irish Sea, Snowdonia, and beyond.
Spectacular.
Slightly nerve-wracking.
Completely worth it.
Conwy: Castles, Oggies and Tiny Houses
Back in Nettie, we headed to Conwy, finding a perfect overnight park-up overlooking the river and estuary.
The next morning we explored the town and had breakfast in the square. This is where I met my first Welsh Oggie — a traditional pasty filled with meat, potatoes, swede and onion.
Hearty.
Filling.
Nap-inducing.
We then visited the Smallest House in Great Britain, a bright red curiosity built in the 16th century. Just 72 inches wide, it housed a fisherman until he was declared too tall to live there.
Next stop: Conwy Castle.
Built by Edward I between 1283 and 1289, this mighty fortress dominates the town. Its intact walls and towers are among the finest medieval defences in Europe.
Nearby, Thomas Telford’s suspension bridge spans the river — a graceful counterpoint to the castle’s raw power.
Sip of the Week: Trapiche Reserve Malbec 2024
After two weeks of locks, lift bridges, castles and campervan miles, it was time for a glass of something easy.
This week’s sip is the 2024 Trapiche Reserva Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina.
It’s ruby-purple in colour, fruit-forward, and very friendly. Expect juicy plum and cherry, with subtle hints of mocha, vanilla, and maybe a whisper of chocolate.
The tannins are soft.
The acidity is gentle.
And at around 13% ABV, it won’t knock you overboard.
Perfect with grilled meats, pasta, or a lazy evening on the towpath. Excellent value. Zero snobbery.
How to Get There: Llandudno Travel Guide
From London:
Direct trains run from London Euston to Llandudno Junction in around 3 hours. Driving takes roughly 4–5 hours.
From Europe:
Fly to Manchester or Liverpool, then continue by train or car into North Wales.
From Asia:
Fly into London Heathrow or Manchester. Connect onward by train to Llandudno.
From South Africa:
Fly to London Heathrow or Manchester via major hubs. Continue by rail or car.
From the USA:
Fly into London Heathrow or Manchester. Train connections are easy and scenic.
Final Thoughts
This marked the end of our wonderful two-week journey. From quiet canals to dramatic castles and salty sea air, Wales delivered at every turn.
We promised ourselves something important.
We will be back.
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