Our Epic Roadtrip to See the Edinburgh Military Tattoo 🚐🎺
Vineyards and Villages – Episode 12
There are road trips… and then there is an epic roadtrip to the Edinburgh Military Tattoo. The kind that involves trusted old campervans, winding “B” roads, historic towns, Roman walls, sea cliffs, Scottish rain (of course), and one truly unforgettable night beneath Edinburgh Castle. With our narrowboat Spirit of Sproglet safely tucked up in Tattenhall Marina, we fired up Nettie – our beloved 1989 Talbot Express campervan – and pointed her north.
Setting Off: From Tattenhall Marina to Skipton by “B” Roads
Leaving the Cheshire plains behind, we deliberately avoided motorways. Nettie prefers “B” roads anyway – fewer tantrums, better views, and far more character.
Skipton – Gateway to the Dales
Our first overnight stop was Skipton, where we used a convenient overnight parking area for campervans.
Often called “The Gateway to the Yorkshire Dales,” Skipton is a handsome market town with roots stretching back over 1,000 years. Its most famous landmark, Skipton Castle, looms impressively above the town and is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in England.
What we love most, though, is the Leeds–Liverpool Canal, which runs peacefully through Skipton. Narrowboats glide past cafés and pubs, their crews waving cheerfully as if everyone is part of the same secret club (which, frankly, they are). There’s a strong narrowboating culture here, plenty of waterside restaurants, and the town feels alive without being frantic.
A highlight was Holy Trinity Church, a beautiful and calm place dating back to the 14th century, with an atmosphere that gently encourages you to slow down. Exactly what you want on day one of a road trip.
Northumberland Calling: Lunch in Rothbury
The next day took us deeper north, still hugging those lovely “B” roads, until we reached Rothbury.
Rothbury – Small Town, Big Charm
Nestled in the Coquet Valley, Rothbury has a long history as a stopping point for drovers and traders. Today, it’s an elegant little town surrounded by rolling hills and moorland.
Its most photographed feature is undoubtedly the Victorian stone bridge over the River Coquet. Graceful and timeless, it reflects beautifully in the water and seems to whisper, “Stay a while.” We listened.
Lunch was at Little Italy, a delightful restaurant with genuinely friendly service and food that punches well above its weight. Excellent pasta, happy smiles, and that comforting feeling that you’ve chosen very wisely indeed. Nettie approved too (she waited patiently).
Roman Roads and Pub Rewards: Heddon-on-the-Wall
Our overnight stop brought us to Heddon-on-the-Wall, where history quite literally runs through the village.
Hadrian’s Wall – A Legendary Frontier
This section of Hadrian’s Wall marks the eastern end of the Roman frontier, built around AD 122 under Emperor Hadrian. Here, you can still see substantial stone remains and understand the sheer ambition of the project – a defensive line stretching 73 miles coast to coast.
We wandered along the wall, imagining Roman soldiers staring north and wondering what on earth they’d signed up for.
The Swan Inn – Campervan Heaven
The Swan Inn deserves a special mention. They offer a free campervan park-up with sweeping countryside views, on the very reasonable condition that you eat in the pub. Frankly, even if they’d charged, it would have been worth it.
Classic pub fare, beautifully done. Full plates, happy hearts, and tired legs after our village stroll. A perfect end to the day.
Crossing into Scotland: St Abbs and the Wild East Coast
The landscape changed dramatically as we crossed into Scotland and headed for the east coast.
St Abbs – Cliffs, Sea, and Drama
St Abbs is one of those places that takes your breath away even before you step out of the van. A working harbour village perched above dramatic cliffs, it feels raw, real, and wonderfully unpolished.
There is an overnight campervan park-up in the village, but we opted for something special: Starney Bay Caravan Club, camping on the hillside with expansive views over the North Sea.
It rained. Naturally. But the misty atmosphere only added to the magic. From the cliff walks above Starney Bay, we could see wind turbines far out at sea, slowly turning like quiet sentinels. Nettie rocked gently in the wind, feeling very much at home.
Edinburgh Awaits: History, Grandeur, and Goosebumps
An early start took us into Edinburgh, where we found a campsite conveniently close to a bus stop. Public transport into the city was easy, efficient, and mercifully stress-free.
Exploring Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city of layers. Medieval closes, Georgian elegance, volcanic hills, and literary ghosts all coexist beautifully.
We explored the Royal Mile, wandered through Old Town, admired the classical grandeur of New Town, and gazed up at Edinburgh Castle, which dominates the skyline from its ancient rock. Founded as a royal stronghold over 1,000 years ago, the city has been at the heart of Scottish politics, culture, and identity ever since.
Every corner seems to have a story. Or three.
The Main Event: The 2025 Edinburgh Military Tattoo
The Edinburgh Military Tattoo doesn’t start until 21:30, but trust us – it’s worth every minute of waiting.
A Night to Remember
The 75th anniversary of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, was themed “The Heroes Who Made Us” at Edinburgh Castle.
Over 800 international performers filled the esplanade with music, precision, colour, and emotion. Highlights included the Ukraine Naval Forces Orchestra and the US Old Guard Fife and Drum Corps, blending tradition with modern spectacle.
The finale? A breathtaking march of pipe-and-drum bands followed by an astonishing drone light show that lit up the Edinburgh sky. Goosebumps. Actual goosebumps.
We had booked our tickets nine months in advance and were not disappointed. Tired, emotional, and completely awestruck, we made our way back to Nettie. Edinburgh left us with both happy and sad hearts – grateful to have been there at all.
Sip of the Week 🍷
2023 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge
Deep ruby-purple in colour, this wine bursts with black cherry, bramble fruit, violet, and pepper, with a whisper of Garrigue that transports you straight to southern France. Dominated by Grenache and Syrah, it’s ripe, full-bodied, smooth-tannined, and unapologetically bold at 14–14.5% alcohol.
We sampled a few (purely in the name of research):
After all that drama, it was time for something reassuringly drinkable.
- Domaine de Mourchon (Séguret)
- Domaine de Piaugier (Sablet)
- Les Coteaux
Verdict? Excellent value, dangerously drinkable, and the perfect companion to reliving epic memories. Nettie remained on water.
How to Get There: Edinburgh Military Tattoo
From London:
Direct trains from London King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley take around 4.5 hours. Driving takes 7–8 hours.
Europe:
Fly to Edinburgh Airport from most major European cities, or travel via Eurostar to London and continue by train.
From South Africa:
Fly from Johannesburg or Cape Town to Edinburgh (often via Dubai, Doha, or London).
USA:
Direct flights operate from New York, Boston, and Chicago. Other cities connect via major hubs.
From Asia / China / Japan:
One-stop flights via Middle Eastern or European hubs offer the most convenient routes.
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