Discover Cesanese Comune, the ancient red wine grape from Italy

Driving to the town of Olevano Romano, Lazio region of Italy in the pouring rain did not dampen our enthusiasm to discover Cesanese Comune, the ancient red wine grape from Italy. Cesanese Comune is an old and elusive vine of the Roman Empire dating back to the first century BC. The Romans were great consumers of wine and there is ample evidence that each Roman slave was provided with 5 liters of red wine per week “to keep up his enthusiasm and strength”.

Ancient Roman red wine cultivars

So, what grape cultivars were used to provide the Romans with all the wine they needed? Research shows that one of the most used grapes was of the Cesanese Comune varietal. Cesanese Comune (more commonly known as just Cesanese) is a red Italian wine grape variety that is grown primarily in the Lazio region. The grape has three Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) regions dedicated to it, namely, Cesanese di Affile DOC, Cesanese di Olevano DOC and Cesanese di Piglio DOC.

Cesanese Comune, a grape with many names

Cesanese is also known as Bambino, Bombino nero, Bonvino nero, Bonvino, Cesanese, Cesanese ad acino grosso, Cesanese nero, Cesanese velletrano, Cesanze Nero, Ferrigno Nero, Ferrigno, Mangiatoria, Nero Ferrigno, Sancinella and Sanginella.

Wine Styles

Traditionally Cesanese Comune was used to make sweet red wines that ranged from slightly sparkling (frizzante) to fully sparkling (spumante) styles. However, quite a few winemakers in Italy changed their style and started to produce a dry red still wine using the Cesanese grape. Under DOC regulations, any wine labeled as “Cesanese” must contain at least 90% of the Cesanese grape variety in the wine. Among the other grape varieties permitted to fill in the remaining 10% of the blend are both red and white grapes namely, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Barbera, Trebbiano Toscano and Bambino Bianco.

Cesanese red wines are usually light-bodied and smooth. The general characteristics of Cesanese wines are dry and fruity with soft tannins and a distinctive aroma of mulberries, cherries, floral notes, some herbs, and spice. Cesanese Comune should be enjoyed when the wine is still young and does not benefit from aging in oak.

Tasting Vignalibus Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore

This wine, Vignalibus Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore was produced with 100 % Cesanese Comune grapes from the Olevano Romano district situated about 500 meters above sea level. The grapes were harvested in the middle of October and followed the following process: Grape bunches are softly destemmed and treated. The fermentation is carried out with skin maceration at a controlled temperature, with frequent and soft pump-overs for about three weeks, in order to extract color and aroma. The young wine is stored in stainless steel tanks for eight months during which period malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine is then bottled and aged for 6 months in the bottle.

The proof of the pudding is in the tasting

I pulled the cork with great anticipation and was surprised by the deep ruby-red color of this young wine. It also had a violet reflection around the edge of the wine.

Sniff-sniff…The aroma is complex, gracefully floral, and reveals a strong cherry and other red berry fruits, forest fruits, and spice notes. The flavor is concentrated and rich, with sweet and thick tannins with a long finish. The wine is a perfect example of the known, earthy character of the Cesanese Comune varietal.

Did you know?

The Cesanese variety earned publicity for being included in the debut wine Sogno Uno by American porn star Savanna Samson. For her first foray into the wine industry, Samson sampled 80 Italian wines before deciding to base her first wine primarily on the rare Lazio grape. Her 2004 Sogno Uno, which earned a favorable 91pt rating from American wine critic Robert Parker, was composed of 70% Cesanese, 20% Sangiovese, and 10% Montepulciano.